Kiltmaking - Handsewn Heritage
Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy - Protecting Future Heritage
Kiltmaking, like many traditional heritage crafts, has developed over centuries and across generations. Always a craft carried out by hand, skills were most often passed on individually, with few records kept. Kiltmaking has been influenced by factors such as the environment, politics, social conditions, popular culture, and trends. The wearing of kilts and the evolution of this illustrious garment have endured exciting and at times, surprising history, however global appeal and fascination for the kilt prevails. The Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy is proud to share our thorough understanding of that legacy with passionate students of this important craft, who are determined to preserve and advance the future of kiltmaking.
There are many questions regarding the true origin of the kilt, along with several intriguing theories. One belief suggests that Celtic mummies discovered in Asia, dating back 3,000 to 5,000 years, wore preserved garments resembling kilts made of checked wool cloth. Could kilts and tartan really be this ancient?
Another possible inspiration for the kilt may have been forced upon us by the Romans. Renowned for their military conquests and often seen in togas, the influential march of Roman civilisation may have imported the idea of a simple draped garment into Scotland—before they were ultimately chased out again! Could the kilt actually be something the Romans did for us?!
18th century Highlanders wearing belted plaids By Jefferys - Burt, Edmund (1754). Letters From a Gentleman in the North of Scotland to His Friend in London. Vol. II. London: Samuel Birt. p. 183.
What we do know, is that to date, the oldest fragment of tartan found in Scotland - known as the Falkirk Tartan - dates back 1,200 years and is believed to have been part of a larger plaid. The Feilidh Mor, meaning "Great Kilt" in Gaelic, became widely worn throughout the Scottish Highlands around 1565. This form of kilt was an ideal way to wear the lengths of wool cloth, handwoven in common abundance across all regions of 16th century Scotland. The loose pleats trapped heat around the body and allowed for easy re-adjustment by belting or tying the cloth during work or battle. Additionally, it could be draped over the head and shoulders for warmth and protection while sleeping. Natural dyes used to colour the yarns woven into tartan also provided effective camouflage, allowing the wearer to be softly disguised into the wild Scottish landscape.
Over time, the kilt evolved into the practical everyday dress of Highland men, particularly throughout the social and political turmoil of 17th and 18th centuries. When the infamous Dress Act of 1746 restricted the wearing of "Highland Dress" in an attempt to suppress Jacobite rebellion, the Kilt was seized from the Highlander's garb and reestablished as the uniform for governmental soldiers.
The Battle of Culloden By David Morier (1705?–1770) - Royal Collection Trust
The military then played a crucial role in transforming the kilt from a simple length of cloth into a tailored garment. The altered style of the kilt and resulting refined construction continued to evolve during the Victorian era as warfare and military lifestyle dictated. Those worn in the trenches during the First World War significantly heralded the end of their active duty on the front lines, although the Kilt continues to be worn ceremoniously by Scottish Regiments. While the repeal of the Dress Act in 1782 allowed a universal return to wearing tartan, kilts and highlandwear, this military-led reformation ultimately shaped modern kilt-making practices and the recognised techniques that we teach today.
image 1 - Black Watch Firing Rifle Grenade 1917 By Bain - United States Library of Congress's Prints
image 2 - cheaply imported low quality kilts
Living through more peaceful decades, consumer demand and global markets advanced and so did the automation of mass production through technology. Increasing ease of travel heightened trends for tacky souvenirs and cheaply produced imports began to flood every high street, affecting every sector, including traditional highlandwear. Ready to wear, machine-sewn kilts made using less meterage of much inferior cloth were no match at all for made-to- measure, bespoke, handsewn wool kilts. But high quantities of low priced imitations quickly saturated and monopolised markets, posing substantial threat to the entire homegrown traditional highlandwear industry. This was a real and grave cultural crisis.
In response to this impending catastrophe, renowned Highlandwear expert Gordon Nicolson founded the Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy in 2016, fulfilling a lifelong dream. Its mission ? To establish an advanced benchmark for handmade kiltmaking, equipping a new generation of kiltmakers with the skills necessary for a rewarding and viable career, while ensuring a sustainable future for genuinely produced national dress. As of August 2024, 53 qualified kiltmakers have succesfully graduated from this most robust kiltmaking course . Many EKA graduates have subsequently found employment with Gordon Nicolson Kiltmakers. Some have secured employment with fellow authentic Highlandwear businesses, while others have gone forward to build their own freelance Kiltmaking careers.
Edinburgh Kiltmkers Academy History Talk Social Evening December 2024
However, in 2025, handsewn kiltmaking remains listed as an Endangered Craft classified by Heritage Craft’s Red List criteria, making our challenge ever –more vital.
Becoming a student at the Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy is not only about learning to make kilts confidently from start to finish (although that is certainly the main objective!), but also gaining a broader understanding of the craft. We aim to provide sound practical training to build flexible and rewarding careers, while actively promoting and preserving essential traditional creative skills. Our accomplished graduates are now bolstering the growing highlandwear industry from within and are shaping a secure future for handsewn kiltmaking. If you too, share their aspirations, contact us today to explore opportunities to help rebuild our future heritage.